We were blacksmiths, cook, we become pixuetus by passion, we saw giant squids, strolled a beach-poem. A walk through corners between Western Asturian mountains, valleys and seas to discovery of its people.
The fingers of the musician strumming and start your run, mesmerizing, the guitar strings. It is a flick that will aggregating beauties, incurring brusquidões, calming suddenly curling ellipsis. And suddenly regains flight and enters our eyes on the panoramic memory these days. The music becomes earth, sea and sky. Is it our own meander through mountains that rise like gods and valleys in pure vertigo, by villages and hamlets that nestle by these Western Asturias that are unfurled naturally intimate, amid a sea vegetable overwhelming and a sea to cut cliffs abrupt.
"It is but a shade Andalusian Asturias," says Reinhold us Bohrer, German musician with many years in Spain and Madrid traded - along with his wife, Patricia, and their children - the "peace" of the field. Even called Asturias (Leyenda), this piece created by Isaac Albéniz in the late nineteenth century. Here, where now listen live, assumes contours rise. Reinhold plays it in concert close to three guests in the lounge of his "music hotel", a former "large house" in stone, Cantiga del Agueira, some two centuries under the theme of Albéniz, Pumares, Santa Eulalia de Oscos where we are surrounded by lush nature valley, mountain, woods and across an area classified as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. "We looked out the window and have the true luxury. We see how the vegetation changes, such as changing the colors. Espreitas the window in the morning and wake up already to exclaim 'wow.' " Patricia speaks of the windows of his "large house". But it could be talking about all these now calcorreamos Asturias.
Love at first sight
There are moments like a journey. Barely landed and now, suddenly, fate grabs us and, in a flash, in the conquest for life. Gave up this case after less than two dozen kilometers drive from the airport to the Asturian coast. We were going very well absorbing the first landscapes of this region of northern Spain when we began to descend to the sea, powerful magnet Cantabrian. In a single line, flanking the sea, first one portinho fishing where revenge today artisanal practices, a first stop of the car and a warning: "Wait, wait, now will see how impressive, is only seen when the earth is already in it, "says Onofre us, our guide Tourism of Asturias. Suddenly appears in all its splendor the tableau that is the amphitheater Cudillero, pueblo fishing with their colorful houses tangle the slopes of the hills. The fact that you call amphitheater is logical since we have a right to a real spectacle, highlighted by multiple bright colors used on the facades. Cudillero rises from the main square, filled with restaurants and terraces with obvious specialty: fish and more fish and more seafood. "The fish jump from the boat to here and here for the tables", it is to tell us of Mr. Demetrio fishmonger in homonymous square. At age 72, conversationalist, fisherman and fishmonger ("refurbished", "my children is that they were there to play cards") shows their fish as jewelery. "Mullets, hake, sea bass, all ...".
Not in vain that this land, which seems cut off from the rest of the world but inextricably linked to the sea, has an own dialect (dialects abound across the many worlds of Asturias) dubbed pixuetu, also used for its inhabitants and that derives from fish. It Trini Fernandez, Tourism site, we will tell these details and guiding us through the maze of alleyways rise of Cudillero where, at some points, from one window to another can be whisper secrets (and peek into the home of every us ...). Hearing the running water, are exchanged buenos días , it is known that among its monuments is the church of the sixteenth century and the oldest building is the Capilla del Humilladero (dating back to the twelfth century) but the real monument is the same set of Cudillero. And when we come to one of the sights at the top of the village, amid the scent of roses and singing seagulls, jumps in the picture postcard perfect, Cudillero cupped and March
In parting, a jump to the port, which operates some 170 local fishermen, dedicated to fishing. The wall, and fishing is good. We look forward to the scheduled arrival of one of the boats, to admire the arts of these men of the sea. A, jump boxes full of colorful fish "freshly baked, freshly baked." The ground, are abandoned starfish seas. "Take the stars they want," they tell us.
Vertigo Blue sewn
not bring sea-stars, but we will go up to get closer to the other, from the sky. In neighboring Oviñana (13km Cudillero a few), the imposing Cape Vidio, with its lighthouse, provides a comprehensive overview of all this coast (which is also protected landscape of the West Coast), one unique natural beauty that includes cliff to precipitate to over 100m high ... We are nearing the beirinha, skirted the lighthouse by a letter from a wall only path that has the sharp fall, and is a whirl of sea and sky in a blaze of sunshine to plummet and seagulls in Search nest. Trini Fernandez tells us that in the winter, with a turbulent sea as only he, the wind in violence, and giant waves crashing against the cliffs, the beauty is another immensely. Believe. For now, despite the climate in Asturias microclimates and multiply in the year it is not uncommon to pass between rains and fogs (the most accurate time is July to September), it need luck in the sun. With a view to touring the extremes and the promising beaches, decided it to recover from vertigo, it is best to devote the evening to another Asturian heritage: the cult of cider. Which, by the way also requires plummeting: we raise it and pour it the maximum possible height for the cup. "It's the beer of Asturias," says Trini-in. And we share a cup of cider and familiar conversation, which is for this reason that serves this drink of worship.
And it will be even familiar tone that the day ends. Our last night is nearby, in Soto de Luiña (a few 12km Cudillero) in a hotel that seems to appeal to history and reception: Casa Vieja del Sastre (hence the alfaite). It is not only a hotel and restaurant as a metaphor of the last century site. We are welcomed by sisters Patricia and Marimar Perez, heirs of an ancient tailoring, traditional house (however increased and renewed) of the late nineteenth century, who, before host for half a century the arts of sewing, home was a priest, the guard barracks civil imprisonment during the war ... The tour was taking its weight, both thanks to the visitors who made the Camino de Santiago - a route passes through here - as the holidaymakers in search of beaches, and parents of current managers decided to already seen for start renting rooms. The seams were losing ground, Hosts were winning. Patricia and Marimar grew between these two worlds, and finally, tell us, decided to unite them: they created a theme hotel, decorated with furniture and items tailors and dressmakers other times. The house and rooms preserve humility, which will only be fine. The two sisters and we preserve the hospitality, before a real meal (including a soft version of cod in the Portuguese or Iberian secret), not escape without making them company in the kitchen: Patricia, with her velvety voice, manages to put us apron trying to prepare and turn frixuelos (actually just crepes, but the Asturian).
The giant squid
is the sea that leads us and we follow the coast towards Luarca - just over 37km of Cudillero. As throughout the Asturian coast, is another example of a Pueblo Marinero that in the case shows many of its charms soon as we approach. Downstairs, one glimpses the harbor, the village tidy along the waterfront. But even here, above the entrance to Luarca, there is more to envision. Starting by the Bureau of the Seafarers, next to a gazebo, an enclosure erected in the middle of the twentieth century on the ruins of an ancient fortress which even includes a table that teachers would use to decide the comings overboard. Beside, a series of panels with ceramic episodes that evoke moments and legends of this land navy. Two steps to the side and look at the ocean, we have life and death in your space of eternal beauty, cemetery. And probably will be one of the cemeteries with the most beautiful views in the world, located at the top of the hill, watching her curves and wide open to the sea.
Are mysteries, such as the deep ocean we pull a large building in the port of Luarca. Your name starts with surprise: welcome to Centro del Giant Squid. This is the giant squid. It is here that the most important place in the world dedicated to this legendary sea monster, so legendary that even exists - and here in many preserved specimens reaching up to nearly 14 meters long. This is a real box-museum, where it is a huge marine world (900m2 are ...) in rooms and more rooms and more runners. In fact, it is a house wider (is CEPESMA - Coordinator of the Study and Protection of Marine Species) which is dedicated to all marine life species, particularly fish from the depths, the most rare or never seen alive, and that includes activities educational and awareness-raising activities related to the protection of the seas. The center receives both giant squids and other copies. And all this is due to the man who guides us and explains in detail each specimen preserved that most draws our attention and wonder. Luis Laria explains that it all started around 1995, when his passion for Architeuthis dux (the official name of megacalamares) led to "buy one for 70,000 pesetas" - indeed, the largest specimen that is preserved in the world. "But maintenance costs were much higher." Since then, took his interest in these beings to the point of getting in Luarca create this center of world impact, where, among all kinds of cephalopods and hundreds and hundreds of other species marine, are preserved dissected 27 specimens of Architeuthis (the largest collection in the world). And to see a giant squid, even dead, live, we ensure that mystery that is not forgotten. Already the center is located here may seem less puzzling if we are able to rely on the Asturian coast are dozens of sightings of large squid.
After a lesson deep sea, what more could you want than a good fish for lunch? That's why we sat opposite the fishing port, the restaurant Sport. The sporty name hides a family house with 65 years of history, recently renovated. A modern minimalist interior guard parts of the story, but mainly keeps a kitchen we arrived very fresh and unblemished. From a chubby juicy and understand to a trio of desserts with a rice pudding with burnt sugar - can become a case of love at first taste - undergoing a soft hake as few and in two variants: empanadas (a " Classical inevitable, "calls them our guide Onofre) and hake in green sauce with clams and ink (thats the precious detail) squid ..." And what is the secret of hake so soft? "ask Juan Carlos Menendez, who manages with her sister, Maite, this gastronomic temple. "Money!" Replies laughing. Explains well: "It's the best fish of the day, I come to the market and paid what he deserves. This has no secrets: how to choose it, save it, treat it, is to respect the raw material and tradition. Say, is not spoil it. " You explained the recipe of chef .
My nail is better than your
leave the sea and the back adentramo us towards Asturias Galicia. Almost there until we will sight and reach but for now, it is only our direction. This time, the sun's playing hide and seek with us and thanks to the variety of microclimates provided by the Asturian geography, as we crossed the mountains and valleys (sometimes by roads either by gigantic, controversial and costly engineering work which is Autovía the Cantabrian a chain of motorway that's being developed for a quarter-century, full of amazing viaducts and still unfinished), so we get a ray of sunshine like a curtain of thick fog. Contingencies which also require plans to jump but, in this case, lead us to choose to approach the fire.
In the village of Mazonovo, in the region of Oscos, the "two steps" of Galicia, with little more than a dozen people, comes as if we traveled in a time machine. By dirt road, we saw the low houses with characteristic stone slate roofs, the green valley, the gentle flowing brook. And with this, running secular, a forge and its water mill with wheel Godwit scoring step. It is, in fact, part of the Joint Ethnographic Mazonovo. But it is not just museum. "Here we all, art pieces, souvenirs , but now even more utilitarian ask us things like hammers or hoes. "Young Caesar traveled to Galician descent, is now the Emperor of fire, this workshop shaded where the embers will illuminating the darkness of the stone and the hammer hitting iron is the soundtrack. The forge is the eighteenth century and became part of the twentieth century still. Until you reach the Austrian Fritz and make everything work again in the 1990s. But on this day, do not concur with the master, we get an apprentice who meets well the honors. Hands marked with fire and sword, the young blacksmith conducts operations and let us also try (anyone can do it: for two euros messes fire hits iron and comes out with a recuerdo ). Leather apron, hammer in hand, we are ready to hit up no more. Among sparks and hammer, a nail out at the end handcrafted with the head marked by our strength. And behold, as per minutes were blacksmiths. A visit to the ethnographic collection can be complemented with gateway (next in Ferreirela of Baxo) by Marquis de Casa Natal Museum Sargadelos, prime industrial iron and ceramics of the eighteenth century. But, just above the blacksmith, is another attraction. It also seems centuries old but it is a new year. Is the restaurant L 'Augua that takes contours between the idyllic detailed restoration, the wooden balcony, the immaculate interior, and tell us a Asturian cuisine with gusto. "A journalist," asks me Joaquín. Is that coincidence, calhamos spend here on the day that the Asturian newspaper La Nueva España devotes a page to its history, appealing to the beholder so deserted village. It is the rebirth of this house due to another new country, Joaquín Fernández, a prodigal son, born in the region, who left behind a career in banking for millionaires in Switzerland, decided to live with her partner and their two adopted children the heart of nature. "At first it was difficult, there was no way the materials as they could descend the slope, the neighbors looked with suspicion ..." But talking to goes everywhere and amaze yourself fears. Now there is to see why the neighbors smiling and restaurant at a good pace.
And so we return to other adopted children in the region, our "music hotel", where we expect a room mansion in rural Casona Cantiga del Agueira and intimate concert with Reinhold Bohrer the guitar or the piano, singing his wife Patricia (is which gives a sociologist with voice and dedication to the choir) and even her daughter, little Anna, eight, on the flute. And, in this haven of music (the hotel welcomes musicians or any guest with an instrument can join, in addition to performing concerts and special events), harmonies and quiet (when it is required), also expects us to awaken our window with a natural "wow". The neighborhood, many proposals for tours, including hiking to the waterfalls (such as Seimeira), entering into the woods.
Surrounded by the natural garden, we still have time for a night escapela the village of Santa Eulalia de Oscos: is a special night on earth, with the ladies to go out early morning hours creating flower carpets (and other materials, the flowers were missing ) for Corpus Christi Sunday. A tradition that shows unions florida land. For Santa Eulalia is just one street and some notes. But almost back home, we will see in Castropol, on the bank of the river Eo, surrounded by beautiful beaches (las Cathedrals, Penarronda) and Galicia to look away, streets and streets carpeted with flowers, a tradition of a century and it is a pride of the land, only lasts one day but memories keep up all year.
The sound of silence
In starting time left on the agenda a space open for a desired end in beauty. The way to the airport, a passage by another poem Cudillero zone. Counting Asturias more than 200 beaches along its coast, many of them wild and lonely cemeteries that makes this land with ocean view or know the mysteries of giant squid, is the guardian of a beach, 1 kilometer Castañeras, only the name has calls us. The Beach of Silence, however, is, in turn, guardian other decoys. To get to it, is to leave the car behind and walk a few hundred meters until you can admire it in all its splendor. From the top of the cliff, opens far below the bay cupped the entire Atlantic, wild, embraced by jagged cliffs with a master hand, the green corridors that seem untouched dive among the rocks. The path and steps down to the beach to require effort. But it is also why this beach takes a throne poem. When we walk the beach, is a sheet of stone, gravel and sand (and garbage, the tides do not play). Empty, has a quietly orchestrated only by the sound of seagulls and the slight curl dragging and resets pebbles. It's like a mesmerizing music, created by some divine composer to give us his version of silence. It is an image forever and is another song of Asturias.
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